For today's Mechanical Monday, we are taking a look back at the myths of tubeless tires. With all the rumors, both good and bad, about tubeless tires, it is about time to cut through the fluff and give a real accounting of this ever-growing technology. What are some of the common myths that need answering? We've compiled the list below:
Myth One: "Tubeless doesn't work."
Myth Two: "Any cyclocross tubeless tire will work."
Myth Three: "My Road Tubeless or 29er tubeless wheels will work just fine."
Myth Four: "You must use tubeless tires."
Myth Five: "Low PSI means faster."
Myth Six: "Wider rims are always better."
Myth Seven: "You need a compressor."
Myth Eight: "It’s always possible to change a tire the night before a race, or the morning of..."
Myth Nine: "Valves are all the same."
Myth Ten: "Low pressure is the only reason to try tubeless."
Myth Eleven: "Setup is complex and time-consuming."
Myth Twelve: "There are limited options for tires and rims."
Myth Thirteen: "Tubeless is heavier than tubulars, but lighter than clinchers."
Myth Fourteen: "If I can bottom out without burping, I’m good."
Myth Fifteen: "Tubeless is heavier than tubulars"
With top-tier riders like Mical Dyck finishing as the lead North American Elite Rider at the 2015 Cyclocross World Championship in Tabor, tubeless is becoming too relevant to ignore. For quality content like this tech article, be sure to subscribe to our print or digital magazine today, which is also available on Uberflip, in the App Store on iTunes, and on Google Play for Android.
If you find yourself pleasantly surprised by the dispelled myths, and the idea of going tubeless has piqued your interest, be sure to check out our earlier "how to" guide for going tubeless in Issue 25 as well.
Myth Four: “You must use tubeless tires.”
Tubeless for cyclocross started with tire conversions—using tire sealant to make the tire sidewall impermeable and to help seal the tire bead to the rim. Of course, this required a relatively tight, strong bead so that the sealant could form its bond and the bead would be static enough so that the seal remained intact. To seal the rim holes, tight rubber rim strips, or even split, undersized inner tubes were used in the early conversions. This also served to keep the tire bead from falling away from the rim wall and served as another area to seal the tire bead.
Stan’s NoTubes was the first to produce a kit that had all the implements for conversion. Later, Stan’s NoTubes again led the pack with a tubeless-specific rim that all but eliminated the need for the rim strip. Even now, conversions have the advantage of lightness and suppleness over most tubeless-ready tires since the airtight membrane of the latter adds weight and stiffness. We have converted several cyclocross tires successfully, and continue to do so. However, experience for a conversion is the key, so rely on established databases (such as Cyclocross Magazine’s Going Tubeless series of articles). Even then, your mileage may vary.
24.5mm deep, 24.1mm wide (external). NoTubes new Grail gravel, road disc and cyclocross tubeless wheelset. © Cyclocross Magazine
